Q. What's the best way to see, driving in a fog at night? A. Use
the low beam headlights. With your "brights" on, lights shine directly
into the fog and you see more glare than road. But with your low beam, the
lights shine downward. So you see less glare and more road. If you drive
in a lot of fog, you may want to consider fog lights. If you get them,
mount them low. They should be beneath the headlights but no lower than
12" off the ground.
Q. Any other fog-fighting tips? A. One basic tip we can
offer is drive slowly but keep moving. Others are:
- Turn lights and wipers on.
- Use defroster to cut condensation on the inside of windshield.
- Be especially alert. And keep a watchful eye in the rearview mirror
for cars coming. If you stop too fast, they may not be able to.
- Watch out for cars creeping through the fog at a snails pace. You'll
be surprised how quickly you can be right on top of another car if
you're not ready for it.
- If you have to pull over on the side of the road, be sure to turn on
your flashers.
Q. Does it have to rain hard to make roads slippery? A.
Not necessarily. Many roads are surprisingly slippery in the first few
minutes of a rain. Water mixed with the dirt and oil that collected when
the road was dry can make a soapy-slick film that takes a while to wash
away.
Trying to stop on damp roads can be as dangerous as trying to stop on
wet roads. That's why it's important to slow down when it starts to rain.
You don't have to creep along. Decrease your speed when the shower starts.
And allow more distance than normal between you and the car in front.
Q. I have good brakes and new tires. Why should I slow down in the
rain? A. Hydroplaning is one reason. At higher speeds on wet
roads, your front tires may actually be riding on a layer of water, much
like water skis. And when that happens - and it's happened to me - it's
gray hair time! You lose control of the car and it can start to drift to
one side and go into a spin.
Q. What should I do if I start hydroplaning? A. If you
feel the front wheels start to "drift," take your foot off the gas, but
don't touch the brakes or turn the wheel. As you slow, your tires will cut
through the water, grip the road and give you control again. Of course,
it's best to try to avoid it altogether. Drive slowly on very wet roads.
Don't overload the rear of your car hoping to get more traction. This
makes the front wheels hydroplane easier. Check the tire pressure and the
condition of your tires because worn tires are more likely to hydroplane
than new ones.
Q. What else can I do to stay on the road in the rain? A.
Try to avoid sudden moves with the steering wheel. They can be dangerous.
In fact, even slight moves can make a difference on a wet road. When
possible, drive in the tracks of the car ahead. They will be drier than
the rest of the road. But don't keep your eyes down. Watch where you're
going but don't tailgate.
Q. I'm snowbound in my car. What now? A. Don't panic. And
stay with your car. It's your best shelter. Run your engine and heater for
only 10 minutes or so every hour. You'll stay warm enough, and you'll be
conserving gas in case you're stuck for a long time. When running your
engine, keep your window cracked for air. And most importantly, make sure
your tail pipe isn't covered with snow. If it is, deadly exhaust fumes
could back up into your car. Turn on your dome light occasionally at night
so you can see how other passengers are holding up. Tie a colored scarf or
cloth to the fully extended antenna, and light a flare if you have one. If
you live in heavy snow country, plan ahead and provide for these two
lifesavers ahead of time:
- Keep a basic emergency kit in your trunk and know how to use it.
- Keep your tank at least half-full even though it requires frequent
gas stops. If you get stuck, you'll need the gas to help you run the
heater at frequent intervals to stay warm.
Q. Is a wet road more slippery the colder it gets? A. No,
actually the road is most slippery right at 32 degrees, when water may not
freeze completely, leaving the added hazard of water on ice. Any time the
temperature is anywhere near freezing, assume the road ahead is icy and
reduce your speed accordingly. Or, find a motel for the night. Remember
that bridges and overpasses may freeze before the rest of the road because
the air is cooling them from both above and below.
Q. Are starting problems on cold mornings always caused by the
battery? A. No. Surprisingly, a weak battery is often a result
rather than a cause. One national survey showed that 56 percent of cars
with winter season starting problems still had the problems after getting
a battery charge or a new battery. The cause could be something else like
the ignition system or carburetor adjustment. A tune-up can be a big help
for fast starts on cold mornings.
Q. Snow tires or chains, which are better on icy roads? A.
On glare ice, snow tires just can't compete with chains. At 20 mph it took
a car with snow tires 151 feet to stop. The same car with regular chains
did it in half the distance.
Q. Any other winter suggestions? A. You know the old
saying about an ounce of prevention. If you'll always be conscious of the
things that might happen, you can do plenty of little things to keep them
from happening. Keep windows clear of ice and snow on all sides. If you
can't see a hazard, you can't avoid it. If it's icy, try not to parallel
park. It's a lot harder to get moving if you have to turn your wheels.
Don't decrease tire pressure in an effort to gain traction. You won't get
more traction and you will get more tire wear. Don't spin your wheels if
you're stuck. That may only make it worse. When stopping, let off the
accelerator slowly and earlier than normal then pump your brakes gently
instead of jamming them on. If you start to skid, steer in the direction
the rear of the car is sliding.